Ride Report, Beartooth Pass and Chief Joseph

We rode back to Cody today.... up the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway. It was totally the best ride so far. Switchback after switchback, beautiful ride. Once again we found ourselves struggling to focus on the road instead of the amazing scenery.

We made it back to the overlook at the top (see pics from the last post) and I got a pic of the bikes.


We rode into Cody and got some gas, a snack and a drink, then rode back up the Chief Joseph. We got a little wet, but the weather cleared right up as soon as we got out of town and back onto the scenic highway.

Everyone told us that the Beartooth pass was closed, but we turned up it anyway. The last hotel owner told us that this was the absolute best scenery / ride in the entire area and that it is rated one of the best motorcycle (scenery) roads in the country. We turned up the road anyway. Just figured that we'd turn back once we hit the barricade. Make a right at the stop sign to hit the beartooth :)


They were 100% right. The scenery up this road was by far the best of the entire trip. I had the camera out more times here than I've had it out anywhere else! On the way up we came across a sweet waterfall.


Then the Beartooth Lake... still mostly frozen over.




Nice name for this store (it pretty much was at the peak).




Leaving the 'top of the world'


Really incredible views... absolutely amazing.


You can see the weather pattern that we were about to get caught in.










Bikes... and us.






Think this might be why the pass is still closed?




More scenery...




End of the line... all the equipment and the crews are here to begin clearing the road further.






On the way down from Beartooth we saw the 1st group of sportbike riders we've seen the whole trip. They were loaded out, each with saddle/tankbags. They told us a story about how they had a helicopter after them earlier today, just before they entered the park and that a nice ranger had a chat with them about speeding, and called of the chopper without giving them a ticket! They were headed for the Chief Joseph Highway and we told them about the Beartooth.... they headed off toward the Beartooth pass, and hungry and needing gas we headed back for Cooke City and the motel.

It's been a pretty awesome couple of days. Tomorrow we'll be heading into Yellowstone again. We hope to see Old Faithful, then head south to Grand Teton.

From Graybull to Cooke City, WY

Sorry for the delay in updates. We've been doing quite a lot the last couple of days.

The drive from Graybull was incredible. We left the motel without checking the gas gauge (big oops) and I was very worried for a bit about whether we were actually going to make it all the way to Cody, WY (the next town) because there's absolutely nothing between the two, just rolling hills and a view of the Teton moutain range. So, we coasted into Cody on fumes and got a bite to eat at the Subway.

We left Cody and started making our way to Cooke City. This road was the curviest, largest change in altitude, and most scenic road that we've come across so far!


There was an amazing overlook from the top (about 8700'). This climb was really the first time that my little truck had to be dropped into second gear... we probably did about 30 mph most of the way up. While the ride up was taxing on the little truck, I must say that it has done very well so far. I've been really impressed.


The views were spectacular. Notice the road winding down the mountain. I think we'll be riding this little road :)






There were some very interesting storyboards there... note the elevations.














About a mile from Cooke City we came across a broken down Subaru and stopped to help. They had somehow run out of oil, as there was no reading on the dipstick. So, we gave the driver a lift into town to get a few quarts of oil. Got a reading on the dipstick after pouring 3... car still wouldn't start. Drag... so he and his girlfriend climbed into the car for a ride into town. He wound up calling a friend who brought a truck and car trailer.

While I was doing all that running around Dave found us a nice little hotel with free Wifi.


The view from the hotel itself was pretty amazing... this shot looks over the hotel's office.


Here's another shot from just up the road.


Funny, the owner of the last hotel in Graybull told us that this place was like something straight out of Northern exposure and he was right!

Here's a view up the street.


.. and another.


Got the ladies unloaded, we're ready for a great day tomorrow! (well, we had a great day riding today... updates on that after a bit)


So, with the bikes unloaded, and given that it was only about 3pm, we decided to head into Yellowstone toward Mammoth Hot Springs. The park was pretty neat. Not long after we entered we saw herds of Buffalo along either side of the road. A bit farther up the road there were a few standing directly in the road. I could have reached out and touched them they were so close!

As we got further into the park we noticed a large gathering of folks, all with expensive photo equipment, parked off to either side of the road. There was a park ranger there who told us that there were wolves that might be crossing the roadway and to keep our bikes 'smooth' through the next bit so as not to scare them.

We didn't see the wolves, but we did see quite a few more buffalo, and a bear on the way to Mammoth. We stopped briefly in Mammoth, then headed back to Cooke City. On the way back to town I saw one of the wolves cross the road directly in front of me! We got back to town and met the owner and a friend of her's who invited us over for a glass of wine. Turns out that the owner's friend is from Texas and they both sponsor the wolf research program in Yellowstone and that their friend Rick, who happened to be one of the lead researchers, would be coming by with an update for them.

So, we invited everyone to join us for dinner and had a fantastic meal across the street at 'The Bistro', pretty much the only place open at that time, but it was an excellent meal!

The Graybull Motel

I didn't talk much about the place we stayed in Graybull, but it's just neat. The Graybull motel. Owners were VERY nice... I talked the owner and his wife for over an hour when we got here last night, and again this morning... one couldn't ask for better people. In fact, that's been a theme out here. Everyone we've talked to out here so far has been really awesome.

Bill, the owner, says he has been in every one of the lower 48 and this area, especially the Tetons and Yellowstone, is the most beautiful place he's ever been. I think I'll probably be back here again before long... it's only about 12 hours from Seattle.

Here's a few pics of the motel. There's a porch around the whole thing, and little seating areas, beautiful flower planters, and rope lighting all the way 'round.


There's a porch around the whole thing, and little seating areas, beautiful flower planters, and rope lighting all the way 'round.




Very nice place, and the rates were also pretty good.

Ride Report, WY US14 -- Bighorn Moutains

WOW. Majestic... absolutely the best riding, and views ever. The Northern Cascades is a close second, but I have to say that the bighorns win because of the variation in terrain.

We left the motel in the morning and stopped at a turnout just outside of Dayton, WY and unloaded the bikes for the first time since we left Johnson City. Click that Dayton Link and follow 14 southwest through Burgess Junction We had planned originally to take US14A and come back on 14, back to Dayton... but 14A was still snowed over and won't be open until sometime later.


Finally free, off the trailer, ready to ride!


Here's a couple of views from the parking area before we left to ride.




On the other end of 14, in Shell, WY at a little country store. The people there gave us some interesting stares, but were very nice. We got the impression that they don't see too awful many sportbike riders up here, which is too bad -- people really don't know what they're missing!


We didn't stop much on the way out to Shell because we planned to come back in the truck and figured that we could get pictures then, this was riding time!

The ride up was pretty wild... it was hard to decide what to do, ride hard and enjoy the bike, or ride slow and enjoy the scenery. It was actually difficult to stay focused on the road on the way up because of the amazing views.

I'd say that the temperature when we left (Dayton sits at about 4000' elevation) was about 70ish... but it was definitely below freezing at the top. The roads were crystal clear, but there was snow everywhere along the sides. Basically the road climbs to 9300', then there's a small decent to around 8000 at Burgess Junction. There's all kinds of 'snow machine' (we know them as snow mobiles) cross-country skiing and snowshoeing resorts up there. On the way back down to the truck after stopping in Shell Dave nearly ran out of gas (he was running so rich that he underestimated his fuel mileage) and we wound up stopping at one of the 'show machine' resorts which, thankfully, had a gas pump.

Dave, pointing out the canyons in the distance.


A pic from the highest point on 14 from Dayton to Shell, WY... nearly 9300 ft (the bikes were running a bit rich).


Yes, both knees have been firmly planted in Wyoming :)


Neat pic, the sign kinda puts things into perspective.


Begin bighorn views...


There were lots of these up... they block snow drifts and help to keep the roads clear during winter.




The local school system does geology field trips up here. We heard a bit of lecture while we were there.




Amazing panoramic views. From here we were able to see nearly the entire last day of travel!




Very nice sweepers...




Before we loaded up the bikes we changed out of the leathers and headed back into Dayton for dinner. There was a nice little diner that served the absolute best enchilada I've ever had.... and Dave had his usual burger and fry combo. We were the only customers in the whole diner and the staff was really friendly. They were flying around little indoor remote control helicopters!

Oh well, full bellies and totally thrilled about the day we headed back to the truck (which had now been parked in the same spot for almost 6 hours) to load up the bikes.


Headed back over to Shell in the truck, loaded down. Notice the road -- ya, we were there just a few moments ago.


So remember the picture of that rock w/ the sign? We decided to hike a bit toward that rock... you can just make out the truck at the bottom of the hill.


Another, from a bit further up.... truck's a bit smaller now :)



Guess I should get ready to duck!


Here's some views from the top -- well, as far up as we were willing to hike that day.




Dave.


Me.


These were all over the hillside.


Dave got creative and figured he'd found his 'purple lotus' (yes, the flower from batman begins grasshopper)


A few views from the pickup.


Anyone for a swim?


There was snow everywhere ...


So, one would think a ski resort would be a good idea... but this one closed down. It would seem that cross-country, 'snow machines', and snow shoeing own the market and no one out here likes downhill skiing.


As it turned dusk the Mule Deer started to come out of their hiding spots. They were EVERYWHERE!! Thankfully they weren't around earlier while we were running through there on the bikes! We were going really slowly in the truck anyway, so the deer were a welcome diversion.


The ridgeline as you enter the canyon is a real sight...


Ya, left knee, right knee -- nice road.


Another nice turn, there were plenty of these to be had.... now, let's see, scenery - or road :)


You can see the river responsible for carving the wonderful canyon that we're in off to the right. There were actually some really amazing falls further up the hill, but it was too difficult to get a shot as the visitor's center (and hence the trails that led to a decent viewing area) was closed.


These are so hard to get used to. They're up all over the state -- whenever a road is closed due to weather or other impassible condition these gates will come down.... like railroad crossings back east :)


Well, we made it over the bighorn mountains with the bikes. I must say that my little pickup truck has been doing extraordinarily well considering the terrain out here, and the load that I've got on it. I'm impressed.

Anyway, we've stopped in Graybull, WY about 171 miles or so east of Old Faithful, in Yellowstone park and tomorrow the plan is to head to Cooke, WY just outside of Yellowstone and ride down and see the Old Faithful geyser tomorrow. If we have time we'll head for the Tetons, otherwise we'll do that on Friday.

The little motel that we're staying in tonight is swell. The fella that works the counter used to ride a 900RR before he bought his Harley and gave us a sweet map of the park, recommended several routes, and told us about all the road closures. Unfortunately, it seems as though we're just a bit early for what everyone around here has been telling us is 'the most scenic road in all the US'. Oh well, maybe another time.

Tired, I'm off to bed now. Goodnight everyone, sleep tight!